Directly below the high voltage security cables, coils of razor wire spring along the tops of ten foot high, two foot thick cement walls. Three pronged spikes facing up in different directions are fixed along the top of the walls. On the top inside edge, facing the courtyard within, in the event one makes it over the wire and upward spikes, more spikes are waiting to catch the infringing hands. Some homes have gates made of steel bars to let cars in and out. These places will usually have several gated yards for penning the packs of attack dogs away from the front gate to let the car out. Obviously going out for a drive takes a team of people to accomplish a successful exit to the outside world - Cape-town, South Africa.
The idea came to me back on Vinalhaven. Under African skies we would meander across the continent, camping out where elephants, lions and rhino's run free. Passing through villages occasionally to re stock on fresh fruit, some locally raised meat and exchange cultural pleasantries.
It seemed a feasible idea - to ship the two dogs, two cats, toothbrushes, a few guide books, Swiss army knife and ourselves down there. When in Africa I would consult the local classifieds to buy a 4x4 motor home, get a map and hit the sandy road Safari bound.
Within the walls of the youth hostel where we had been staying for a week upon our arrival to Cape-town, cell phone reception was weak. Our cats and dogs were still in the holding kennels, we could not collect them as the youth hostel did not allow pets. Money was being burnt up fast in this expensive city. And of the few enquiries I did make for renting an apartment none allowed pets. After the time it took to find my food in the fridge buried under the piles of plastic bags which held the other fifty or so fellow backpackers daily fuel and wake Ashley from her deep slumber from the previous nights revelries, the task at hand seemed bleak.
But these fences could not keep out the sight of the grand mountain of which the city sits afoot, they would creep in at first light i the morning and loom over all day daily awash with the morning and afternoon glow to remind me, Africa is here.
Back on Vinalhaven when i would come home from the days lobster fishing i would take a shower, put food into my mouth then go to the computer and begin my research for all things related to an overland Safari in Africa. In those searches I saw two suitable vehicles for sale.
The first, Ashley and I took a bus out to inspect. I inquired to the chap sitting behind me as to where to get off the bus for my most appropriate stop for the directions I had been given and he strongly suggested that if we did not know exactly where we were going then we must get off at the next police station. For if we ask people on the street, we very well may be targeted as soft and consequently robbed. We de boarded at a busy shopping center and I called the owner of the vehicle, he came to get us. The vehicle was an ex army truck fitted out as a camper on the back which would be live-able for Ashley, the dogs and cats and i while on safari once the reason was found why the engine would not start, and we could then drive it to a mechanic so he could get started wedging the stuck doors open to get an idea of where to begin an overhaul of all the rusted and corroded parts due to have been sitting on the salty coastline asleep for three years. The owners not brave enough to try camping again in fear of being car jacked, held up, robbed or killed.
I started to scratch my head, with no tools, no where to live with our animals while preparing and constant warnings about violent crime, I was beginning to wonder, was this a foolish plan, should I have stayed home. No - Africa is a good destination, then across the Indian ocean, we will island hop, passing through Madagascar, India, Maldives, Indonesia and toward my home in Australia-yes!
I know of no other way, than this - Walkabout.
Then, this, like it descended with the golden glow bouncing off the brown grasses of that great mountain behind me, towering above and down, through the courtyard, skimming over the naked backs of the sunbathing backpacker tribe, flittering in then out of the bbq flames and into my ear. A phone call. A man with a similar 4x4 camper van for sale 1000kms to the North in Durban offers that we come and stay at a cottage on his property while he prepares his camper truck to receive a roadworthy certificate before selling.
I question him about our animals coming too, as he has four dogs of his own. But his reply is that he is actually an animal psychologist/pet behavioral specialist, calling himself Dogtor Jack and would be happy for our animals to come too.
I have no hesitation in accepting and we make preparations to spring our animals from the boarding facility and jump on a plane headed for Durban.
I ask as to the condition of the vehicle for sale and am excited to hear that this one not only starts, is super reliable, is a completely custom made camper with stainless steel long range fuel and water tanks, built upon an original Ex Army Officers Land-rover Forward Control chassis.
Jack explains that he is a little worried about our safety embarking on such a trip with great ignorance and hints over the phone that i need certain education on how to interact with the local black population.
The huge frame of a built up body paces along the front entrance to the airport upon our arrival, it is Jack come to fetch us from the Durban airport. Upon quick introductions, Jack whistles loudly and his wife, named Mary, appears to load our luggage into the trailer at his command. Driving on the exit road out of the airport there are many people walking around on the sides of the road. One of the black men was a little way out from the edge and it seemed our white Volvo station wagon with two cats two dogs and a trailer full of luggage was on a collision course with this old fella but he continued on his way and us on ours and instead of impact it seemed like the guys lower half stretched out of harms way while his top half stayed and swept right over the top of our car. This was Jack's driving style the whole way home.
At the house set in high mountain horse country, over fresh lemonade made by Mary and gorging ourselves with Boerwors (south African premium sausage) from the braii (south African bbq) cooked by stave while he deftly swatted and killed the flies right off from my forehead with out me even feeling a thing, he explained that he is not racist, but clearly demonstrates the differences between the two cultures and points out how some of our ways will not work with the blacks and may attract trouble to us, We were told about how the ancient ruler ShakaZulu was respected as he would make any rebellious follower lie down on his back with legs in the air and have all the village watch as he drove a long spike by hammer into the non conforming mans anus. We are told to keep this strong mentality in mind when dealing with any black person in South Africa as they will not respond to please and thank-you like whites do. That they are rather more like animals and will sniff out fake kindnesses and judge by these senses weather we are a soft target to rob.
We have now been staying in Jack’s cottage for a month, and it turns out that Dogtor Jack has been deeply involved in all aspects of training, studying and analyzing the human/dog relationship for a long time and is very well known as one of the best in the business.
After completing time in the South African Army as a Commander and Sergeant, Jack was once a passenger bus driver, traffic policeman, marriage counselor and engineer. Quite the character, he is a big man with a big heart full of love. He and his wife live happily together and both share a little sadness that such crime has engulfed their homeland but try to remain proud.
The truck remains unregistered to drive on the road and we continue to wait until Jack has it prepared for roadworthy inspection, although we have agreed on the sale, i am suspicious that he may be to attached to such a rare beauty of an Overland Safari Vehicle to let it go with us.
Locked deep within the property walls, a monkey climbs over the fence and speeds along the gutters of the house with barking dogs tilting their heads upward at him, he goes to sit on the peak of the roof and picks the juiciest most ripe paw paw and stops to eat it. Again, I am reminded - this is Africa
